Three Pieces, One Cohesive Set

The set reads as one family of pieces. Build them in sequence so each later piece can take its dimensions from the finished chair.

ADIRONDACK CHAIR (x4) Adjustable back. Seat 24 in wide x 20 in deep, wider than standard for comfort and infant holding. Seat height 15 in, works for both 5 ft 6 in and 5 ft 10 in users. Armrest 25-26 in high, 4 in wide, cup ready. Back has 3 positions: 15, 20, 25 degrees from vertical. Slotted rear leg plus dowel pin mechanism.
MATCHING OTTOMAN (x2) Height 15 in, matches chair seat exactly. Top 20 in wide x 16 in deep. 5 degree forward tilt for leg support. Slat spacing and leg profile match the chair. Build after the chair prototype is finalized; dimensions depend on chair geometry.
SIDE TABLE (x2) Surface 18 x 18 in, fits between two chairs. Surface height 25-26 in, flush with armrest tops. X-brace or 4-post legs matching the chair. No lower shelf. Simple 2 in apron, mitered corners. The simplest piece, ideal third project.

Build Sequence Recommendation Do this first

Build ONE complete chair in cheap pine first, your prototype. Confirm fit for both users. Then template every part. Cut all locust stock for 4 chairs at once. Assemble one locust chair and confirm before batching the rest. Ottoman dimensions are derived from the finished chair, do not finalize them until your chair is built. Side tables last.

Tuned for Your Two Users

These dimensions account for a 5 ft 6 in / 180 lb user and a 5 ft 10 in / 135 lb user, with consideration for occasional infant holding. Where ranges appear, the lower value favors the shorter user and the upper favors the taller.

OVERALL WIDTH Chair 24 in, ottoman 20 in, side table 18 x 18 in. Chair is wider than the standard 22 in for room to shift with an infant.
HEIGHT FROM GROUND Chair seat 15 in, ottoman 15 in, table surface 25-26 in. The 15 in seat suits both users without feeling perched or sunken.
SEAT DEPTH Chair 20 in, ottoman 16 in. Standard 18 in extended slightly; the taller user benefits from more thigh support.
SEAT PITCH Chair 5-7 degrees back, ottoman 5 degrees forward. Not too reclined, essential for standing up with a baby.
ARMREST 25-26 in high, raised 1 in above the typical 24 in to support the elbow when cradling an infant. Table surface matches for seamless reach. Armrest width 4 in, a usable surface for drinks, phones, an infant's feet.
BACK HEIGHT 36-38 in from seat. Tall enough for head support at 5 ft 10 in, not so tall it dominates the shorter user.
BACK ANGLES 15 / 20 / 25 degrees, three notch positions. Shorter user likely prefers 15-20, taller prefers 20-25. Confirm in the prototype.
REAR LEG THICKNESS 1.5 in minimum. The dowel slot removes material from this leg, do not go thinner.
SLAT SPACING 1/4 in gap on chair and ottoman. Allows drainage, prevents debris, maintains visual rhythm.

Prototype All Critical Angles in Pine First Confirm before locust

The seat pitch, back angle range, and armrest height all interact in ways impossible to fully evaluate on paper. Build the pine prototype to confirm these dimensions before cutting a single piece of locust. Have both users sit in it. Have one of them hold a baby or simulate doing so. What feels right on paper often needs a 1-2 in adjustment in practice.

Why Black Locust Your pick

Best domestic species for fully exposed CT conditions. Rot resistance is exceptional, it outlasts teak in ground contact tests. Janka hardness 1,700 lbf, hard enough to hold threads well. Expected 30-50+ years fully exposed. Cost $6-10 per board foot.

VERDICT Black locust beats teak (3-4x more expensive, no meaningful outdoor advantage), white oak (15-25 yr, more maintenance), and Western red cedar (too soft, screws pull out). Pine is for the prototype only, 2-4 yr untreated.

Buy kiln-dried, surfaced (S4S) black locust from a regional hardwood dealer. Purchase 10-15% extra per chair to account for learning cuts on the first locust build. In CT try Granby Sawmill, Berkshire Products, or any NE hardwood dealer sourcing Appalachian stock.

Primary material specs for the full set. Buy kiln-dried S4S locust to minimize milling. Order 12-15% extra per chair for learning cuts. Avoid air-dried or green locust (it checks and warps), film-forming finishes (they peel outdoors), and zinc or galvanized screws (they stain and corrode locust).

Black locust hardwood lumber (primary structural) 4/4 (1 in rough) to ~3/4 in finished for slats, arms, aprons, top · 8/4 (2 in rough) to 1.5 in finished for legs · Select or #1 grade, avoid knotty · kiln-dried, 8% MC or less · buy 12-15% extra per chair

$700-1,100 Still Needed

Exterior penetrating oil finish Rubio Monocoat or Osmo UV Protection Oil · apply pre-assembly and post-assembly · ~1 liter covers 4 chairs · reapply every 2-3 seasons · not film-forming poly, varnish, or cheap teak oil

$60-120 Still Needed

Stainless steel fasteners and hardware #8 x 2 in stainless square-drive (200 ct) · #8 x 1-5/8 in stainless (100 ct) · 3/4 in hardwood dowel rod, 6 ft lengths · countersink/pilot combo bit · 6 medium bar clamps (24 in) · Anchorseal 2 end-grain sealer · square drive only, pre-drill always

$80-130 Still Needed

Pine prototype lumber (build this first) 1x4 pine 8 ft, qty 8 for seat and back slats · 2x4 pine 8 ft, qty 4 for legs and arms · Home Depot or Lowe's construction pine · validates all angles before cutting locust and serves as your template source

$25-40 Still Needed

Cut List, Per Piece Finished dimensions

All dimensions are finished (after surfacing). Multiply chair quantities by 4 for the full set. Build ottoman and side table after the chair prototype is confirmed. All curved cuts (front seat edge, back fan, front legs) require a jigsaw.

CHAIR LEGS AND FRAME (8/4) Front legs x2: 1.5 x 3.5 x 21 in, curved front face, angled top for armrest. Rear legs x2: 1.5 x 4 x 46 in, seat notch and dowel slot cut here, size generously. Seat supports x2: 1.5 x 3 x 22 in. Back frame rails x2: 1.5 x 2.5 x 36 in, must align with the dowel pin slot.
CHAIR SEAT (4/4) Seat slats x5: 3/4 x 3.5 x 24 in, front slat gets a curved leading edge, 1/4 in gaps.
CHAIR BACK (4/4) Center slat x1: 3/4 x 4 x 38 in, top arc. Mid slats x2: 3/4 x 3.5 x 36 in. Outer slats x2: 3/4 x 3 x 32 in. Edge slats x2: 3/4 x 2.5 x 28 in. All tops cut to one unified arc.
CHAIR ARMS AND MECHANISM Armrests x2: 3/4 x 4 x 28 in, curved front. Front arm supports x2: 3/4 x 3 x 8 in. Dowel pins x3-4: 3/4 in dia x 2.5 in, one per back position, snug fit.
OTTOMAN, PER UNIT Legs x4: 1.5 x 2.5 x 15 in, bottom angled 5 degrees. Side rails x2: 1.5 x 2.5 x 16 in. End rails x2: 1.5 x 2.5 x 18 in. Slats x4: 3/4 x 3.5 x 20 in, 1/4 in gaps, match chair seat width.
SIDE TABLE, PER UNIT Legs x4: 1.5 x 1.5 x 24 in, taper to 1 in at bottom on two faces. Apron boards x4: 3/4 x 2 x 16 in inside, mitered 45 degrees. Top slats x3: 3/4 x 5 x 18 in, 1/4 in gaps.

Template Strategy

Once your pine prototype is finalized, trace every part onto 1/4 in hardboard (Masonite) to create permanent templates. For curved parts (front legs, armrest shape, back fan top arc) the template is especially critical, it lets you trace the exact curve onto every board without re-measuring. This is how you get 4 chairs that look identical.

How the Dowel Pin Slot Works All wood, no metal

THE SLOT Cut into the rear leg face. 3/4 in wide x 6-7 in tall. Three notches spaced 2 in apart, notch depth 1/4 in into the slot wall. Use a chisel to clean the notches. Gives 3 back positions.
THE PIN 3/4 in hardwood dowel cut to 2.5 in length. Passes through the back frame rail and rests in a notch under gravity. No hardware needed.
BACK ANGLES Position 1: 15 degrees from vertical. Position 2: 20 degrees. Position 3: 25 degrees. Notch spacing drives the angle, confirm in the prototype.

Critical fit note: the slot must be cut before the rear leg is assembled into the chair. The notch depth should hold the dowel firmly under normal use but allow easy lifting to change position. Test fit with the dowel before finishing; locust is hard enough that a too-tight fit will not loosen with use the way softwood would. Size the slot slightly generous and fit the dowel for a snug but smooth action.

Rear Leg Sizing is Non-Negotiable Structural

The slot removes a significant amount of material from the rear leg. Your rear legs must be at least 1.5 in thick (finished) and ideally 4 in wide at the slot location. In black locust this is fine, the wood is strong enough to handle the reduced cross-section. Do not try to make the legs thinner to look more refined; this is a structural element bearing real load.

Tool	Status	Notes
Impact driver (18V+)	Owned	Most used tool in the build
10 in sliding compound miter saw (Dewalt or Bosch)	Buy $300-400	Priority buy, most impactful tool
Jigsaw (corded or cordless)	Buy $80-140	Essential for all curves
Chisel set (1/4, 1/2, 3/4 in)	Buy $35-65	For the dowel slot notches
24 in bar clamps x6 (Harbor Freight)	Buy $35-55	Generous clamping during assembly
Square-drive bit set (T20, T25)	Buy $10-18	Mandatory for stainless screws
Tape measure (25 ft), combination square, pencil	Owned	Layout and marking
Mallet (rubber or dead-blow)	Owned	Seating dowels and joints
Safety gear (eye, hearing, push sticks)	Owned	Required for all cutting
Random orbit sander	Owned	Smoothing slats before finishing
Drill press	Rent if needed $35-55/day	Optional, makes dowel holes more precise. Sunbelt Rentals.
Workbench or assembly table	Owned	Sawhorses will work
Marking gauge	Optional $15-28	For consistent slat spacing

Phase 00 of 05 Setup and Prototype Before anything else

Buy tools and pine, set up your work area. Purchase the miter saw, jigsaw, and chisel set. Pick up pine prototype lumber. Two sawhorses and a sheet of plywood are a sufficient workbench; a garage or driveway works fine. Watch 2-3 videos on miter saw safety and jigsaw technique before your first cut.

Build the pine prototype chair, complete assembly. Cut every chair part from pine using the cut list. Assemble with regular screws. Cut the rear leg slot and test the dowel pin in all three positions. This is your geometry test, get every angle right here, not in locust. Sit in it, have your partner sit in it, simulate holding a baby, confirm getting up is not a struggle, then adjust anything that feels off before cutting locust.

Make hardboard templates from the prototype. Disassemble the pine chair and trace every unique part onto 1/4 in hardboard. Cut templates with a jigsaw and label each clearly. For curved parts the template carries the exact curve. Sand template edges smooth, they will be used as jigsaw or router guides.

Phase 02 of 05 Material and Milling Locust acquisition and cutting

Order black locust lumber. Call your dealer with the confirmed cut list and request kiln-dried S4S in 4/4 and 8/4. Order 12-15% more than calculated. Ask for boards from the same drying batch for color consistency. Expect 2-4 weeks lead time. Let the lumber acclimate in your work area at least 1 week before cutting.

Cut all parts for all 4 chairs at once. Using templates and the miter saw, cut all parts in a single session or over 1-2 days. Organize by type in labeled piles so tool setups happen once per part type. Pre-drill every screw hole; locust is dense and will split without pilot holes, especially near ends and edges.

Cut dowel slots in all rear legs. Mark the slot on all 8 rear legs using your template. Cut the slot sides with a jigsaw (two parallel cuts), chisel out the waste, then chisel the three notches. Test each slot with a dowel pin, snug but smooth. Do all 8 legs before any assembly. A simple scrap-pine jig holds the leg at a consistent angle.

Apply pre-assembly finish to all parts. Sand to 150 then 220 grit. Apply penetrating oil to all faces and edges while parts are flat. Seal all end grain with Anchorseal or thin epoxy, this is where rot begins even in locust. Do not finish glue or screw contact areas; leave a 1 in band around every screw location unfinished.

Phase 03 of 05 Chair Assembly First chair then batch

Assemble the first locust chair and confirm before batching. Build one complete chair from finished parts: leg assembly, seat supports, slats, back assembly, then armrests. Clamp generously and check square at every step, a racked chair rocks. Test the back mechanism through all three positions before attaching armrests. Have your partner sit in it before building the other three.

Assemble the remaining 3 chairs. With the process confirmed and parts pre-drilled and pre-finished, these go together much faster. Work one chair at a time. Apply touch-up finish to any raw areas exposed by assembly. Let each chair cure fully before moving outdoors.

Phase 04 of 05 Ottomans 3-4 hrs per unit

Build both ottomans (x2). With chairs complete and dimensions confirmed, cut and assemble the ottomans. Height (15 in) and slat spacing must match the chairs exactly; place a chair alongside during assembly to confirm the relationship. Same finish process: sand, oil, end-grain seal, then assemble. Build both in one session to keep miter setups consistent.

Phase 05 of 05 Side Tables and Final Finish Most forgiving pieces

Build both side tables (x2). Cut four tapered legs, four mitered apron boards, and three top slats per table. Assemble the apron box first with pocket screws from inside, then attach legs, then lay the top slats. Confirm surface height matches armrest height (25-26 in) before fastening the top. The 45 degree apron miters are the trickiest cuts; test in pine scrap first, half a degree off shows a gap.

Final finish pass and touch-up. Light sand (220 grit) any assembly marks, then apply a second coat of penetrating oil to all exterior surfaces. Pay attention to end grain, undersides of armrests, and undersides of seat slats, the areas most vulnerable to CT weather. Set the finished furniture in a shaded spot for 1-2 weeks before full exposure so solvent off-gasses and the wood acclimatizes before the first rain.

Item	Low	High
Black locust 4/4 lumber (~180 BF)	$360	$540
Black locust 8/4 lumber (~60 BF)	$240	$420
Dowel rod (mechanism pins)	$8	$15
Pine prototype lumber	$26	$42
Hardboard templates	$12	$18
Stainless screws (all sizes)	$40	$62
Bar clamps (x6)	$35	$55
Countersink bit set	$18	$30
End grain sealer (Anchorseal)	$18	$25
Exterior penetrating oil (Rubio/Osmo)	$55	$90
Materials Subtotal	$812	$1,297
10 in sliding compound miter saw	$300	$400
Jigsaw (cordless)	$80	$140
Chisel set (3-piece)	$35	$65
Square-drive bit set	$10	$18
Tape measure + combination square	$20	$35
Rubber mallet	$12	$22
Safety gear	$20	$35
Random orbit sander (optional)	$40	$70
Tools Subtotal	$517	$785
Total DIY Project Cost (all tools new)	$1,329	$2,082

Total project covers 4 chairs, 2 ottomans, 2 side tables in black locust with adjustable backs, plus all tools purchased new. A CT custom furniture maker would quote $6,000-12,000+ for the same set in 2026; a single comparable-hardwood chair from a high-end brand runs $800-1,600 retail. Estimated savings $5-10k versus a custom order.